From Nerdy’s dominance to the daisy-stamped staples of Mardi Mercredi, and from MLB baseball caps to Emis lids, the preferences of Chinese youth have shifted over time, but their interest in South Korean fashion has remained constant.
Driving this continued popularity is a concerted push by South Korean streetwear brands to enter the Chinese market.
Since the beginning of 2025, brands including Emis, Rest&Recreation, and Ader Error have opened their first stores in China. But none has drawn more attention than Musinsa.
Musinsa began as a sneaker community and has since grown into a hybrid fashion platform combining e-commerce, content, and community features. It is widely recognized in South Korea.
According to Musinsa’s official account on Xiaohongshu, the platform carries more than 8,000 brands across categories ranging from basics and casualwear to streetwear and formal apparel. In 2024, Musinsa reported an annual GMV (gross merchandise value) of KRW 1.24 trillion (USD 892 million).
Beyond its online presence, Musinsa has launched several physical outlets that bridge e-commerce with retail and has also developed its own house brands. One of them, Musinsa Standard, debuted in 2017 and has been dubbed the South Korean equivalent of Uniqlo for its accessible pricing.
Musinsa Standard’s China flagship store is set to launch online in September. Its first brick-and-mortar outlet will open later this year at the Parkson shopping mall on Huaihai Road in Shanghai. Another store is expected at the revamped New Young 6 mall in Xujiahui.
Partnering with Anta
Chinese shoppers are already familiar with Musinsa, often visiting its stores in Seoul.
According to Musinsa, its Seongsu store at Daelim Changgo saw a 257% quarter-on-quarter increase in spending by Chinese customers in the second quarter of this year. At its Hongdae store near Hongik University, Chinese spending grew 180% year-on-year. Across its five Musinsa Standard locations in Seoul—Gangnam, Myeong-dong, Seongsu, Hannam, and Hongdae—Chinese consumer spending rose 120% in the first half of the year.
These figures bolstered Musinsa’s decision to expand into China. A key factor in this move was support from Chinese sportswear giant Anta.
According to media reports, Musinsa and Anta have established a joint venture, with Musinsa holding a 60% stake and Anta 40%. Musinsa maintains operational control, while Anta provides local market support.
Their collaboration began in January. At that time, South Korean media reported that Anta acquired a 1.7% stake in Musinsa for KRW 50 billion (USD 36 million), with plans to form the JV.
Musinsa has also attracted prominent investors. In 2023, it completed a Series C funding round led by KKR, valuing the company at KRW 3 trillion (USD 2.2 billion).
Anta, which acquired Fila in 2009 and fueled its rapid expansion, has continued to grow through global acquisitions, adding brands such as Arc’teryx and Salomon to its portfolio. Its annual revenue has surpassed RMB 100 billion (USD 14 billion). In recent years, Anta has diversified beyond performance wear, expanding into yoga apparel and now streetwear.
Musinsa represents Anta’s first foray into fashion through investment rather than full acquisition.
Among Chinese visitors to Musinsa’s Seongsu and Hongdae stores, roughly 60% are aged 10–29. Tapping into this demographic could help Anta strengthen its appeal among China’s Gen Z.
Musinsa’s need for Anta
The rise of South Korean fashion comes as interest in once-popular Western streetwear brands wanes in China. This shift has created opportunities for labels like Musinsa to gain market share.
Social media has played a critical role. Endorsements from celebrities and influencers, paired with recommendation-driven platforms, have accelerated brand visibility among Chinese consumers.
According to Musinsa, its international customer base spans over 100 countries and regions. Chinese and Japanese shoppers lead among foreign visitors to its offline stores, accounting for 32% and 27%, respectively.
In June, Musinsa announced plans to speed up global expansion, with China as a priority. It aims to open more than 100 stores across China by 2030. To do so, it will rely on a strong local partner.
The cautionary tale of Nerdy underscores why such partnerships matter.
Founded in 2017, Nerdy quickly gained traction across Asia, including China. Around 2020, it entered the mainland market and grew quickly, operating more than 60 stores in major cities.
But disputes with its Chinese distributor disrupted its operations. In December 2024, Nerdy’s China team announced the closure of its Tmall flagship and outlet stores by year’s end. Most of its physical locations in China have since shuttered.
Nerdy’s challenges highlight the risks South Korean brands face in China and why Musinsa’s collaboration with Anta may help it navigate the market more effectively. Anta offers operational expertise and a deep understanding of local consumer behavior.
Still, in the fast-paced world of youth fashion, brands can lose relevance as quickly as they gain it. For Musinsa, staying in tune with shifting tastes will be essential.
KrASIA Connection features translated and adapted content that was originally published by 36Kr. This article was written by Li Xiaoxia for 36Kr.